Wanted

• Tom Acton, Grade 8
• Poetry
• 2015

My heart thumps as I approach
Dump after endless dump.
The tension starts building and
Duck, dive and dodge...
I avert the oncoming foamy waters.
My heart jumps and adrenalin starts pumping, like fire alight.
Out I hop.
My heart drops...
My ears narrow near to the sounds of constant waves
A sign of red alert- too big and boat less please.
Away I slowly turn as my stomach starts and churns.
It calls me out.
The wave draws nearer and I slowly start to paddle - fearless.
Onwards to the cliffs of water, breathing fiery foam of force.
The barrel leaves me breathless
The crowd collapses with gasps.
I re-emerge - the beast is tamed