The Perfect Moment

It's calm on Brookesdale beach today. The waves aren't crashing against the boulders along the water’s edge, just fading into small waves as they reach the shore. There's a refreshing breeze blowing through my long wavy hair and the aroma of the salt is in the air. So is the smell of fresh, golden, hot chips.
I like surfing, it's my only way to escape reality. I've been surfing for a year now. This is one of those days where I can just enjoy the mesmerizing view from my board, and surf waves bigger than a bus.
My legs dangle in the water as my arms paddle me toward some boats about 300 metres away from the beach. I stop for a moment and smile at the view. There are some pretty good waves today, though not many surfers riding them. I take a swift look behind me and can see a wave forming and coming right my way. I lay flat as a log and paddle like mad until I feel it's tug behind me, I jump up suddenly, and here comes the wave. Happiness fills me as the wave turns into a tunnel and I head towards it. The tunnel is narrow, but big enough for me to get into. It looks like a clear blue waterfall wrapped around me. As I come the end of the wave I do a few flips and sharp turns before stopping to rest.
These are the days that I absolutely love. When I can just stop and look at the beauties of life. Most days I sit at a picnic bench with a cup of hot chips and enjoy the sunset, before I head home. The eye catching view of the sunset just makes you think 'wow'. The purple, red, yellow and orange blend together amazingly. It’s a spectacular sight.
It's almost 7pm and already I've been here for 4 hours. I grab my bag, tie my hair in a bun and start walking home. The sky turns from a light rosy pink to a navy blue within seconds. Stars fill the sky, guiding my way as I walk along the empty path, headed for home.
Twenty-two, twenty-four, ah twenty-six, my house. A sigh of relief escapes my mouth and I reach the front door. I unlock the door and with a slight nudge of my hip it opens and I walk in. I still have this warm feeling flowing through me, like i'm still in the water, on my board. I walk upstairs to my room, not uttering a word to anyone. I plonk myself on my comfortable bed. I imagine it’s the ocean and I am there, with not a care or worry in my mind. I wish that I could stay in this place forever. My eyes get tired and as they close my perfect moment slowly fades away. I drift to sleep, knowing that tomorrow is a new day with more adventures.

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