Teahupoo

• Jacqueline Grimes, Grade 10
• Short Story
• 2005

It’s a hot summer day, there isn’t a cloud in the sky and I’m about to make either the biggest mistake of my life or the greats accomplishment. I grab my board and jump in the boat. As I look around at my mates, I see the terror and excitement on their faces, jack, nipper and frog. I try to shake off the fear by looking at the water and focusing on the fish swimming with the boat.

As we come closer I can see the wave that is considered the worlds heaviest. We are all pumped up. Looking death straight in the eye. We grabbed our boards and jumped in. it was a perfect 7ft barrel, clean as can be, it looked just like a picture. We paddled up and sat there for a moment. Just enjoying the moment. Then, after ages just looking at the wave, I paddled for it.

I jumped up, and grabbed my rail. I almost stacked but managed to hang on, the wave just elegantly curved over me, it was unbelievable. I was in heaven for a moment. Then I accelerated and came out. Everyone cheered and we started to surf.

After a few hours we felt like little kids again. The surf was perfect and nothing was going to spoil this moment, well at least that’s what we thought. As I sat there in the water looking at the island, I saw clouds coming over the furthest mountain.

Then suddenly we heard a cry. I spun around and saw jack going over the falls. We all paddled as close as we could with out getting caught by a wave. Frog tried to swim closer to where he fell but the waves were just too strong. I frantically paddled around, just looking for his board. Then I saw it.

The nose of the board was sticking out of the water. I realised that the leg rope was tied around some coral and he was a goner. There was no way anyone could get to him with out putting our lives at risk. In that exact moment time stood still. Jack was dead. And no one could do anything to change that.

We all came here thinking we were indestructible, on top of the world and now Jack’s dead and I just cant think. We had to wait for the police to arrive and get the body free. Seeing him floating there horrified me. I lost my best mate. And it was because of surfing.

To this day I haven’t been in the water or near the beach because I see Jack’s face on every wave. it’s the hardest thing to endure, I can't believe this happened.