Wave

• Callan Spiers, Grade 4
• Short Story
• 2019

As the morning sun glanced across the sandy shore, I quickly got out of bed, dressed in my wetsuit and started waxing my board. I walked out the door and continued to stroll down to the old jetty. It's only two hundred metres but I enjoy it.

I noticed one of my friends called Henry was heading out to surf too. As we reached the jetty, we untied our leggies and cast our boards into the rough untidy sea.

The morning sun was still on the horizon. We paddled out to the break. I saw a wave approaching, I didn't want to catch it, but Henry did and went flying all the way to the shore. I saw him leave the water, "he mustn't want to surf anymore," I said to myself.

All the white water began bubbling. As I was paddling a enormous wave was coming. I went closer to the shoulder and turned into the right position to catch it. It broke on top of me, I thought I was a goner, but through the crash of the enormous wave I was pushed on to front of the wave. I was going so fast I could feel the wild wind blowing my blond hair. I stood up and this giant wave formed into a barrel around me. I could see the crystal clear water on the side. It was beautiful, all the salty water was blowing in my face. I came out of the wave and I went straight to Henry.

I walked up the sand shore and walked with Henry to our houses and I dreamed about going again.