Surfing

• Sofia King, Grade 7
• Poetry
• 2019

Big crashing waves, freezing cold water, I’m in the Mother Ocean and I am her daughter. Wind blowing your hair, cruising along the smooth crazy crash, the dentless liquid smash.
The warm sand hits your feet, you breathe the fresh salty air. You walk on, the gentle breeze hits your hair. Surfboard slipping out your hand, trying your best to withstand the impulse to drop the delicate piece of fibreglass. Pro surfers see you as lower class.
Waves, relaxing, calming, full of grace, yet reckless, thrilling at fast pace.
The chill down your spine, you’d think would make you whine. Only the experience too great, you’d be insane to wait.
The dark blue surge of water is gradually coming from the rear. Bigger and bigger, it’s coming really near.
Waiting for the perfect time to leap on your board and take in the exhilarating moment, the rush of adrenalin - indescribable. Overall, undefinable.
Right from the start, I knew I wanted to just jump in and ride. I went, I tried. I took a confident stride. I failed, went again and swallowed all my pride.
It’s hard this surfing. I wanted to just jump in and ride. I wiped out and cried.
I was stoked. I’d done it. I’d ridden a wave. My own wave bespoked. My inner self provoked. Standing on a clean green face. Alone in my own special place.
Then suddenly I was engulfed in peaceful power – thundering shower.
All I could see was a swirl of sand and sea. Hands, head, feet and board are all spinning in the tumble dryer. But they are getting much wetter not at all drier.
The ride was all over in a few short moments. I need another one – no postponements.
I encourage you all, don’t just play football. Get in the ocean and paddle a board. Mother Ocean releases her energies stored.
Mothers may punish mistakes, but they love their children and give them special treats. Mother Ocean may hurt you but will also teach you great feats.
I hope that all of you are now desperate to jump into the sublime salty sea.