Water, Waves, Sand, Sun And Freedom.

• Jamie-lea Tunbridge, Grade 7
• Short Story
• 2008

I reached behind me struggling to pull the ziper up on my old torn wet suit but finally succeed. I grabbed the nose of my fibre glass board and where I was going determination would lead. I started to run up and across the hot sand dunes and could already feel the heat on my shoulders, but I wouldn't stop because when I'm out there on those waves I feel like I'm in and apart of a sea of brave soilders. I see the enemies, the big waves and suddenly I feel like I haven't felt in days. When I see the water I definately do not stop but go faster and harder. When I reach where I can not stand I jump on my board lay flat and paddle with my arms. I paddle deeper and my eyes sting from the waves hitting my face and my muscles are tired from pulling my-self back on my board when the waves knock me off. I am finaly in position. I turn my body and board towards the shore then watch and listen. I look over my shoulder and see a big wave building up fast and this one looks like it's going to last, right up to the shore. I paddle hard, jump up with confidence and lean forward. I have done it!! I have won todays battle I have surfed the meaniest, roughest and toughest wave there was that day on that beach and as I surfed that wave there was nothing in my head absolutely nothing except the thought of water, waves, sand, sun and freedom.