Oh, What A Feeling!

• Harrison Cottrell, Grade 6
• Short Story
• 2009

Oh, what a feeling! By Harry Cottrell

I loved days like this but I felt the pressure mounting. I so wanted to be good at this. I so wanted to feel like I could do this as well as all the others.

We were surfing again, my dad and I. Mum and baby sister Lily decided the swell was too big so they played with the rest of the little ones.

Everyone was talking about how the biggest swell of the year had arrived. If there was any day that I wanted to get this right, it was today.

The surf looked bigger than ever. I could feel the excitement all through my body. I sat out the back waiting and watching for the wave that I could rip all the way in.

I had always wanted to nail a tube, maybe today was my day!

I pulled onto the biggest wave of the day. I tried for the tube, got in, but it just forced me under again.

I knew dad was watching and in the distance I could see mum and Lily. I really wanted to feel the sensation of being in the tube and having the pleasure of making it out. And I really wanted to prove to everyone that I could sink into the barrel just like all of my kin.

Here it comes again. I concentrated all my energy and just at the right time, I went for it, letting the sheer power of the wave engulf me. I slowed just enough to get inside the swirling power of water. I felt it trying to pull me up and swallow me but I sped up and then suddenly a feeling I have never felt before. I was spat out by the best wave of my life. “I DID IT!” Then I looked up to make sure. Everyone was watching. Yay. I couldn’t help but jump for joy. It was the greatest feeling ever.

Dad looked so proud. I hoped that I could do it again. The entire pod was still watching. “Here it is son, can you do it again?” The wave coming in was slightly smaller but just watching it form made me hungry for it. My small fins made turning the easiest thing in the world. I swung around and swum for it. I almost missed it until the wave gave in and let me on. I didn’t think I could make the drop. Amazingly I did. I slowed once again and then I was in. I felt the wave pulling me up again, and then trying to fling me over as I sped down the line. Wow, it was amazing.

I fell down the wave as my fin caught the tube. I regained balance just in time and I felt the wave spit me out for the second time. “I’m surfing dad, I’m really surfing”.

Dad smiled at me. “My son, that’s how dolphins surf.”

Oh, how I love being a dolphin.